With a variety of sandy beaches suitable for kids, L’Escala is a fantastic destination to spend your summer holiday.
L’Escala has a variety of great beaches. Photo by David Leigh.
One of the great things about l’Escala as a holiday destination are the number of beaches nearby. When the Greeks first colonised the area it was for strategic reasons rather than the beaches. But they could scarcely have done better if that were the case.
Located at the south of the gulf of Roses, the town is near the long stretch of sand that extends north famous for wind surfing and kite boarding.
But there are also a number of other beaches, big and small, set in both urban and more natural settings.
While the small town beaches are a little too small and crowded in August and Riells gets packed too, there is still plenty of choice in summer. And if you travel with your dog there are a couple of beaches where you can take your furry friend too.
So much choice, but where do you go? Let’s take a look at in this guide to l’Escala’s beaches.
Riells
The most popular beach in l’Escala is the 600 metre Platge de Riells, which runs down to the harbour.
Riells beach in June. Photo by David Leigh.
The beach is around 30 metres deep at its widest point and great for kids. The shelf is extremely shallow and you have to wade out a fair distance until the water is even deep enough for a proper swim. It is a little too popular in the height of summer, when in can be difficult to find a way to the water without stepping on someone’s towel. In June and early July it is much quieter.
Towards the shore the water tends to be quite congested with kids splashing, teens playing ball and people just cooling off. Get past them though and you’ll have plenty of space to swim. It’s not great for snorkelling but out near the buoys I once found a ray buried in the sand. The fish you’re most likely to see though is the anchovy. No wonder l’Escala is famous for them!
Facilities are excellent, with lifeguards and a first aid station on the beach and bars, restaurants and shops on the promenade behind. And if you like water sports you can take lessons or hire equipment from the shack on the beach.
Cala Montgó
The fine sand beach of Cala Montgó has good facilities and its shallow shelf makes it a great choice for kids.
Cala Montgó in early July. Photo by David Leigh.
This 400 metre beach is on the border between Alt and Baix Empordà and while geographically it seems to belong to l’Escala, is actually lies in the municipality of Torroella de Montgrí.
Towering above the cove is a watchtower dating from the end of the sixteenth century and used to look out for pirate attacks. The headland on which it is built shelters Montgó from the northerly tramuntana wind, which makes it the only place to comfortably dive from a boat when the wind is blowing.
The beach has good facilities, including lifeguards, first aid and toilets. While it isn’t really a town beach, there are a number of bars and restaurants nearby too. However it does get really packed in summer, probably due to its vicinity to the Illa Mateua campsite. If that doesn’t bother you too much then it should be ideal for you.
The Empúries beaches
Along the path running towards Sant Martí you’ll come to the Greco-Roman ruins at Empúries. The ruins are separated from a small sandy cove by dunes and pine trees.
One of the beaches at Empúries in late June. Photo by David Leigh.
This 400 metre beach is the picturesque Platja de les Muscleres, which looks out across the gulf of Roses towards Cap de Creus. Even in August it never seems to get too crowded, probably because there is no free parking nearby. The beach has a gentle shelf so it’s suitable for kids, but if you swim out towards the buoys the water gets to a reasonable depth. The rocks on either side of the cove are worthwhile exploring with a face mask and snorkel too. As you look out to sea on the left you can reach the rocks along a long spur of sand.
Nearby are also Platja del Portitxol, in front of Hostal Empúries, and Platja Moll Grec with the wall of the ancient Greek harbour still standing. They are very similar, but Platja de les Muscleres is the one I like best.
El Riuet
This beach at Sant Martí d’Empúries is the start of a stretch of sand that runs several kilometres all the way to Empuriabrava.
The long stretch of sand that starts at el Riuet runs all the way towards Roses: Photo by David Leigh.
This beach is famous for its windsurfing and kite boarding due to the strong wind and because of the fine sand you can feel sandblasted. Generally the sea is safe, but the beach sometimes suffers from rip currents.
There are a couple of massive campsites, so if you’re staying in one of these then you have access to all their facilities. Otherwise there are facilities near Sant Martí but once you cross the footbridge you’ll find very little but sea, sand and dunes.
As well as the windsurf/kite board crowd, the beach is popular with campers, nudists and dog owners. If you’re there for the sport make sure you keep inside the zone set aside for you.
Rec del Molí
The first beach you come to between l’Escala and Sant Martí d’Empúries is notable because it is one of the few beaches where you can take your dog.
Dogs are allowed at Platja Rec de Molí. Photo by Albert Torelló.
Platja del Rec del Molí is a small cove with more than 300 metres of sand. A canal runs into the sea at the end closest to the town but it is an easy walk with your dog if you’re staying in the old town. Just don’t forget to take doggy bags when you go.
It’s probably a little too small if you have a large dog or your pooch is nervous of other dogs. In that case El Riuet is a better bet as there is much more space. That’s where we take our 35 kg mutt!
Even more beaches
I haven’t covered the smaller town beaches, which are picturesque but really too crowded in the summer. They may suit you despite the number of people.
Nor have I covered the rocky Cala Illa Mateua, which can be awkward to get to and uncomfortable. It consists of boulders and large stones both in and out of the water and is great for snorkelling. The island in the middle has a cave through it which you can explore using scuba gear. It’s not very taxing and good for beginners.
And kids like to climb to the top of the island and jump ten or so metres into the water. It looks great but I’ve never tried it.
Like all things, the only way to find your favourite l’Escala beach is to try and few and find which you prefer.
If you have any particular suggestions not listed here I’d love to hear from you. Just leave a comment below!
