The exclusive resort of S’Agaró boasts some of the most expensive properties on the Costa Brava. Next door Sant Pol is more modest but has a fantastic beach.
The coastal path at S’Agaró. Photo by David Leigh.
This part of the Costa Brava consists of rocky coastline and sand beaches and is all rather beautiful. It would be overstating things to say it is completely unspoilt, but the area has avoided a lot of the mass construction suffered by parts of the region.
Here you’ll find a couple of great sand beaches, a good choice of accommodation and some great food. As you’d expect in a small beach resort like this shopping is quite limited by both Platja d’Aro and Sant Feliu de Guíxols are within easy reach for when you can’t find what you need.
Each summer Sant Feliu holds the Porta Ferrada music festival during July and August. Most concerts are in a stadium constructed in the port and so Sant Pol is a great location to stay if you’re planning on a concert or two. While it doesn’t attract the biggest names in music, that doesn’t mean it doesn’t include a good choice of musicians from around the world.
The origins of S’Agaró
Dating as far back as the 1920s, the gated community of S’Agaró was a project of Girona architect Rafael Masó. He intended the development to be sympathetic to the surrounding spectacular landscape using traditional Catalan design. While an admirer of Antoni Gaudí, as a student he became part of a group that went on to create Noucentisme as an alternative to Catalan Modernism, of which Gaudí was the leading exponent. Masó’s modern designs were informed by both classicalism as well as local materials, techniques and culture.
In 1916 wealthy industrialist Josep Ensesa i Pujadas bought a plot of land, intending to build a summer house designed by Masó. When Masó reported the plot was unsuitable Ensesa i Pujadas bought the adjacent plot too. With too much land for his own requirements, Ensesa i Pujadas decided he could sell plots for a summer estate and purchased more land. However the outbreak of the First World War saw the plans shelved until 1924.
The project was revived by Ensesa i Pujadas’s son, Josep Ensesa i Gubert. He brought Masó back to design a summer house, known as the Senya Blanca. From that Masó was hired to design an estate with public squares, stairs and sports and social facilities.
Part of the project was the construction of the 5-star Hostal de la Gavina, a luxury hotel that over the years has seen scores of names from Hollywood and the music business staying as a guest there. The hotel was originally two separate houses which were converted to a single building. It opened in 1932. The project was halted due to the death of Masó and the Spanish Civil War. It was resurrected in the 1940s under Francesc Folguera, who followed Masó’s guidelines.
Originally the summer haunt of the Catalan elite, S’Agaró gained the attention of the international set and in the 1950s and 60s became popular with Hollywood. Actors, writers, politicians and artists rubbed shoulders.
S’Agaró straddles the border between Sant Feliu de Guíxols and Platja d’Aro and while it is actually in the municipality of Castell-Platja d’Aro it feels quite distinct. While Sant Pol is actually part of Sant Feliu de Guíxols the two neighbourhoods feel part of an organic whole. Geographically this area feels quite separate from both towns.
The winding path along the seafront between Sant Pol and Sa Concha beaches provides some spectacular views of the Mediterranean and glimpses of some equally spectacular S’Agaró properties. Well tended lawns in perfectly manicured gardens and large houses with some of the best views you can image – how the other half live!
Beaches
While there are a number of coves along this stretch of cliff most holidaymakers will head to the beaches. Sa Conca is a 400 metre stretch of sand beach that can be reached from S’Agaró itself or along the coastal path from Sant Pol or Platja d’Aro. Because S’Agaró is a gated community the number of vehicles within the estate is strictly controlled, which limits the number of beach goers to Sa Conca. It is popular, but unless you are actually staying within S’Agaró you have to walk.
Cala Pedrosa is a 20 metre shingle beach reached from the path. It’s small size limits the numbers but it isn’t particularly easy to get to. And to the south of S’Agaró is the 850 metre Platja Sant Pol.
Sant Pol Beach. Photo by David Leigh.
It has a gently sloping shelf making it good for youngsters and rather coarse pink hued sand that doesn’t cling to everything to the extent that finer sand can do. The promenade is lined with restaurants and there are several hotels along the seafront too.
Colourful beach huts on Sant Pol beach. Photo by David Leigh.
The area of the beach closest Hostal de la Gavina has a line of coloured beach huts next to the Taverna del Mar restaurant. Although pricey, its reputation is excellent.
Where to stay
Much of the property in S’Agaró and Sant Pol consists of privately owned holiday homes. Behind Sant Pol beach are street upon street of modern apartment blocks, which is a real shame. But there are a number of hotels serving the area too.
Of course there is the 5-star Hostal de la Gavina, around which much of the S’Agaró development was built. At one time a hugely popular destination of the early jet set it remains popular along many A-listers visiting the Costa Brava even today. It’s an impressive looking hotel where you can just imagine the Hollywood set in its heyday.
On the headland that juts out on the far side of Sant Pol beach is another 5-star hotel, the extremely modern Alàbriga. It’s a far cry from the design philosophy of S’Agaró though and rather than a tasteful design sympathetic to its surrounding, Alàbriga Hotel was designed to stand out. Other hotels include the 4-star S’Agaró Hotel and a number of 3-star hotels within easy reach of the beach. Considering the size of the resort there is a good choice of hotels. More on S’Agaró’s hotels.
Eating in & eating out
There is also a pretty good selection of restaurants along the beachfront at Sant Pol and numerous more places to eat in S’Agaró. And you don’t need to go far for the much larger choice of eateries in Sant Feliu and Platja d’Aro. In the S’Agaró and Sant Pol area you are spoilt for choice.
The are a cluster of restaurants next to each other mid beach. You’re unlikely to get a bad meal at any of these places, which are always packed at lunchtime during the summer with diners in and out. Villa Laura (Passeig de Sant Pol, 135) serves a good selection of tapas with friendly and efficient service, including a water bowl if you have a dog, at least if you’re sitting outside. They also have a selection of seafood dishes, burgers and pasta so there’s pretty much something for everyone. Restaurant Rosa Maria (Passeig de Sant Pol, 111) is a seafood restaurant with exquisite paella. It’s open year round and is a good place for a lazy Sunday lunch off season while looking out to sea.
The jewel in the crown here though is the Taverna del Mar, which directly overlook the beach and has fantastic views out over the Mediterranean. The restaurant is owned by Hostal de la Gavina and is pricy but very, vert smart. It’s worthwhile walking by just for the delicious aromas wafting from the kitchen and, as you might expect, the menu is very much focused on seafood.
If you’re staying at the Gavina then there are numerous restaurants and bars within the hotel complex. Head onto S’Agaró high street and you get even more choice including a brasserie and pizzeria.
On the other hand, anyone self catering has limited choice within walking distance. On the promenade there is a small supermarket (Super Anna, Passeig de Sant Pol, 105) where you can buy essentials and on S’Agaró high street you’ll find local supermarket chain Valvi (Avinguda de Platja d’Aro, 293) which is much more comprehensive but also quite expensive. You’re really better off heading to Platja d’Aro where there is a much better slection of large supermarkets where you can get just about anything you want.
What to see and do
The big attraction here is, quite naturally, the beach. Aside from swimming and sunbathing you’ll find a range of activities you can participate in. At various points along the beach you’ll find sun loungers and parasols for rent, but there is also a sailing school, scuba diving, kayaks and all the usual activities you find along the coast.
It’s worthwhile spending some time exploring the area on foot. The winding footpath from Sant Pol to Sa Conca is pretty spectacular, with fantastic views from the path above the rocks. You get the chance to look at some of the spectacular properties within S’Agaró estate too, or as much as you can peaking through the gaps.
And while much of the construction in Sant Pol is recent – property prices behind Sant Pol are far more affordable than S’Agaró – there are also a number of treasures dating from the late nineteenth and early twentieth centuries on the promenade and just behind.
These are houses built for the indianos – Catalans who had made their fortunes in the Americas and constructed spectacular houses in the Catalan modernist style to show off their wealth. These houses are striking in their appearance and often use lots of glazed tiles. Many look as if they are out of a fairy tale.
Their fortunes came from exporting cork and other products to Cuba and other territories and importing goods such as cotton, sugar and coffee. The area to the south of the Costa Brava has a reputation for textiles that remains today. Inditex, which owns brands including Zara, Bershka and Massimo Dutti manufactures in Tordera, near to Blanes.
One source of the indianos’ wealth is usually glossed over though. Slavery was a profitable business for some of those who made the fortunes in the Americas and it can be difficult to discern if anyone’s hands were totally clean.
One last thing. Every summer the Porta Ferrada music festival takes place in Sant Feliu’s port area. You get selection of artists from all over the world during July and August including well known names from the UK and US as well as Spanish and Catalan artists. In recent years New Order, Patti Smith, Iggy Pop, Jamie Cullum, Simple Minds, The Human League and Kool & the Gang have all played. Tickets are pretty reasonable compared with other similar events in Catalonia.
How to get there
S’Agaró is easily accessed from both Sant Feliu de Guíxols and Platja d’Aro.
Exit the AP-7 motorway at junction 9A and head towards Platja d’Aro – the nearly 30 kilometre road starts out as the C-35 before becoming the C-65 and then C-31. You want junction 312 for the last kilometre on the GIV-6621 before arriving in Sant Pol and S’Agaró.
