At the southern end of a stretch of sand that beach that extends all the way down from Estartit, the coastline again becomes rocky. Here you find the town of Begur with its mediaeval castle looking down from high, and a number of fishing villages belonging to the municipality that have retained their charm.
The medieval castle towers above Begur. Photo by Albert Torelló.
Sa Riera, Aiguafreda, Sa Tuna and Fornells are all a world away from the type of low budget tourism sometimes associated with the Costa Brava. Here is the Costa Brava of pine covered cliffs and rocky coves and summers of swimming and snorkelling followed by evenings eating fresh seafood under the stars, washed down with a local wine.
The hamlet of Esclanyà is also in the municipality of Begur and contain Roman remains as well as a thirteenth century church and fifteenth century castle. Most of the municipality is on the Begur Massif and the coastline is particularly rugged here.
Accommodation options in Begur are varied, with options ranging from budget-friendly hostels to luxury villas and boutique hotels. Visitors can choose to stay in the heart of the town or opt for a more secluded location in the surrounding hills.
Begur offers a wide range of restaurants serving traditional Spanish and Mediterranean cuisine. Fresh seafood is a particular highlight, with many restaurants sourcing their ingredients from local fishermen.
In terms of activities, Begur offers something for everyone. Water sports such as kayaking, paddle boarding, and windsurfing are popular options, while hiking and cycling are great ways to explore the beautiful natural surroundings.
Cultural events also play an important role in the life of Begur, with a variety of festivals and events taking place throughout the year. The town’s weekly market is a great opportunity to experience local life and sample regional products.
For history enthusiasts, Begur’s rich history is reflected in its stunning architecture and landmarks. The Begur Castle, which dates back to the 16th century, offers stunning views of the coast, while the Gothic-style church of Sant Pere is a beautiful example of local architecture.
Overall, Begur offers a perfect mix of natural beauty, cultural heritage, and modern amenities, making it an ideal destination for holidaymakers looking to experience the best of the Costa Brava.
Beaches
There are a number of beaches and coves along Begur’s rugged coastline, each with its own unique charm and characteristics. Sa Riera is a coarse sand beach located in a wide bay of about 230 meters and around 80 meters wide. Sa Riera is a family-friendly beach, and it is well-equipped with showers, toilets, sun lounger and umbrella rental, and a beach bar.
Sa Riera beach. Photo by Paddy Briggs.
There are several restaurants nearby too. The beach is popular, especially during the high season, but it’s rarely overcrowded. Sa Riera is perfect for water sports, such as kayaking, paddle boarding and snorkelling.
Aiguafreda is a small secluded cove measuring approximately 20 meters by 15 meters wide with a jetty from where you can hire a dinghy. The rocky beach has limited facilities, but its peaceful surroundings and clear waters make it a popular spot for snorkelling. Aiguafreda is accessible by car or a short walk along a footpath and the renowned Hostal Restaurant Sa Rascassa is nearby.
Sa Tuna is another charming cove found on Begur’s rugged coastline popular with tourists. The pebble beach is about 75 meters long and 20 meters wide and renowned for its tranquillity. The beach is equipped with showers but there are a number of restaurants nearby.
Platja Fonda is 160 metres of dark coarse sand surrounded by pine covered rock and remains largely unspoilt. The beach is reached by steps cut into the rock and it has no facilities. Around here are the coves at Fornells and the beach of Aigua Blava. The latter is a small beach with fine sand renowned for its turquoise water with facilities including toilets, a beach bar and a diving centre.
If you’re staying around here you might want to explore the area on foot and discover the natural beauty for yourself. Each beach has its own unique charm, and each beach is perfect for a different kind of beach experience, whether you’re looking to relax, enjoy water sports, or snorkel in crystal clear waters.
Where to stay
Accommodation options in Begur range include hotels, campsites and rental properties. The hotels in Begur are quite different from those found further south and cater to guests with very different expectations. Many of these hotels in Begur are exceptional and highly rated by their guests.
There are a number to choose from, some located in the heart of Begur with beautiful views of the town and castle. Others are situated closer to the coast and provide stunning panoramic views of the Mediterranean or the Medes.
One hotel option in Begur is the Parador de Aiguablava (Platja d’Aiguablava), a 4-star hotel with stunning views of the Mediterranean Sea. The hotel has an outdoor pool, a restaurant, and a bar, and it is located just a short walk from the beach. It’s a rather boxy design sitting high on the clifftops but with unbeatable views. Another highly regarded option is the Hotel Aiguaclara (Carrer Sant Miquel, 2), a boutique hotel located in the heart of the town. The former palace has a garden, a terrace, and a bar, and it is within walking distance of many restaurants and shops. For more recommendations see The 9 best Begur hotels.
In addition to hotels, there are also many rental properties available in Begur, including apartments and villas. These properties offer visitors the opportunity to have a more private and independent stay in the town. Many rental properties come equipped with full kitchens, outdoor spaces, and access to private pools.
For those looking for a more outdoorsy vacation, there are a couple of campsites in the area, Camping Begur and Camping El Maset. These campsites offer pitches for tents and caravans as well as cabins and bungalows for rent. The former is an eco-campsite and facilities include an on-site supermarket.
Eating in and eating out
Begur is home to many excellent restaurants that serve a variety of cuisine, including traditional Spanish and Mediterranean fare. Toc Al Mar is a popular eatery on Platja d’Aiguablava serving fresh seafood dishes with stunning views of the sea. Another well-regarded restaurant is La Pizzeta, which serves delicious wood-fired pizzas and other Italian dishes.
For a more luxurious dining experience, the menu at Hostal Restaurant Sa Rascassa (Cala d’Aiguafreda) features a range of dishes inspired by the local Catalan cuisine, with an emphasis on fresh seafood and locally sourced ingredients. Some of the standout dishes include the grilled octopus, the sea bass with fennel, and the traditional Catalan dish of paella. The restaurant also has a fantastic wine list, featuring a range of local and international wines to complement your meal. The restaurant also has a lovely outdoor terrace where you can enjoy your meal with a view of the sea.
For those looking to do some self-catering, there are several options in Begur. The town has several small grocery stores offering basic supplies. There is also a weekly market that sells fresh produce, seafood, and other local products. It’s held at Plaça de l’Esglèsia every Wednesday morning. But for a wider variety of options you’ll need to travel to nearby Palafrugell for larger supermarkets or specialty food shops.
What to see and do
While Begur’s beaches are an obvious attraction, there are plenty of other activities and sights to see while visiting the area. Water sports are popular, including kayaking, paddle boarding, and windsurfing. Many rental companies in the area offer equipment and lessons for visitors of all levels. There is also a local dive centre at Platja d’Aiguablava and boat and jet ski rental available.
One popular activity in Begur is hiking, as the town is surrounded by beautiful hills and natural landscapes. The well-marked Cami de Ronda trail is a great option for hikers, as it offers stunning views of the coast and takes visitors through several charming fishing villages.
Visitors should also make a point to explore the town’s historical sites and landmarks. Begur Castle, which dates back to the 16th century, is a must-see attraction that offers stunning views of the coast. The town’s Gothic-style church, the Church of Sant Pere, is also worth a visit as is Esclanyà with its Roman ruins.
Esclanyà
Esclanyà is a charming village situated in the Palafrugell municipality of Girona, Catalonia, Spain. The village is renowned for its Roman ruins, which are considered some of the most important archaeological sites in the region.
These ruins are the remains of a large villa that was constructed in the 1st century AD and was occupied until the 5th century. The villa was built on a hill that provided a picturesque view of the surrounding countryside and was composed of several buildings arranged around a central courtyard.
One of the most impressive features of the villa is its mosaic pavement, which is one of the largest and best-preserved examples of Roman mosaic art in Catalonia. The mosaic includes several panels depicting scenes from Roman mythology, along with geometric and floral patterns.
In addition to the mosaic pavement, the villa also boasts several other noteworthy elements, including a large bathhouse, a heating system, and numerous wells and cisterns used for water collection. It is believed that the villa was owned by a wealthy Roman family and functioned as a center for agricultural production in the area.
Nowadays, visitors can explore the Roman ruins of Esclanyà, which are open to the public and a popular tourist attraction in the region. Visitors can view the remains of the villa, the impressive mosaic pavement, and gain insight into life during Roman times via exhibits and interpretive panels.
For those interested in local culture, the town’s weekly market is a great place to explore local produce and artisanal products. The market takes place every Wednesday morning and is a great opportunity to experience the local way of life.
Finally, visitors to Begur should not miss out on the town’s dining scene, which offers a variety of traditional Spanish and Mediterranean cuisine. From fresh seafood to wood-fired pizzas, there is something for everyone to enjoy.
Overall, Begur offers a wide range of activities and sights for visitors to explore, from hiking and water sports to historical sites and local culture. With its charming atmosphere and stunning landscapes, Begur is sure to be a memorable destination for any traveller.
How to get to Begur
To get to Begur by car from the French border, take the AP-7 motorway and then exit at junction 4. From there, follow signs for Figueres S/Roses for 800 metres until you reach a roundabout. Take the fifth exit onto the NIIa and continue for a little more than a kilometre until you reach another roundabout, where you should take the second exit for the C-31. Continue for 25 km until Verges, where you should turn right to continue on the C-31 for 3.5km, driving through Torroella de Montgrí, and then another five or six kilometres on the same road past Pals and then driving through Regencós and finally Begur. The drive should take around an hour.
If you’re driving from Barcelona the drive is around 90 minutes starting on the AP-7 northbound to junction 9A. That takes you onto the C-35 in the direction of the coast – 9B takes you inland – so keep driving past the numerous villages through the hills, continue as it becomes the C-65 past Santa Cristina d’Aro and then the C-31 past Platja d’Aro for 23 kilometres with occasional glimpses of the sea. Finally you’ll reach a roundabout at Palafrugell, where you should take the first exit through Regencós and on to Begur.
If you’re flying into Barcelona or Girona airport, you can take public transport to Begur. From Barcelona airport, take the RENFE train to Barcelona Sants station and then change to the regional train to Flaça. From Flaça, you can take a bus (generally an hour to 90 minutes) or taxi (30 minutes) to Begur. Alternatively, you can take a bus from Barcelona Nord bus station to Palafrugell and then take a taxi or bus to Begur.
From Girona airport, you can take a bus to Girona bus station and then take another bus to Palafrugell, where you can take a taxi or bus to Begur. Alternatively, you can take a taxi directly from Girona airport to Begur, which is approximately a 50-minute drive away.
