Guide to Colera

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If you want to really get away from it all then Colera might be just right for you. The Costa Brava doesn’t come any quieter than this.

Colera main beach

The main beach at Colera. Photo by Diazda.

Colera is a beautiful town located on the Costa Brava in  Catalonia. This charming town is an excellent choice for those seeking a peaceful and relaxing vacation. Colera is known for its unspoiled beaches, crystal-clear waters, and beautiful natural surroundings.

With a wintertime population of fewer than 600, Colera hardly gets packed in summer despite some decent pebble beaches and the mountainous terrain. The town has a small marina, just a handful of hotels, tourist apartments and a camp site. Access is via road or train.

Accommodation options in Colera are fairly limited. While there is a selection of rental properties available, hotel accommodation is scarce and there is a single campsite. Colera really is a world away from the tourist resorts further south and if you’re looking for a luxury hotel then Colera isn’t the place for you at all. When it comes to dining you’ll find restaurants are fairly relaxed, serving Catalan dishes with a strong emphasis on seafood.

For more energetic holidaymakers Colera has plenty to offer. Visitors can explore the beautiful natural surroundings on foot or biking. The town also home to several cultural events throughout the year, including an annual small boat regata and the Festa Major at the end of September, a lively festival celebrating the town’s patron saint.

Water sports enthusiasts can enjoy activities such as snorkelling, scuba diving, and kayaking in the town’s clear waters. There are also several beaches in Colera, including the beautiful Platja de Garbet.

A brief history

The town has its origins in the tenth century when the Benedictine monastery of Sant Quirze was built. If you look on the map you’ll see the monastery is around eight kilometres inland though. The name may come from the latin word collis, meaning hill.

In 1770 three brothers were granted permission to found a village, originally named Sant Miguel de Colera. Legend has it that with the authorisation came a plan of where to build the church, the town hall and cannons for defence. No such plan has ever been documented though.

Towards the end of the following century Colera came under the stewardship of nearby Portbou, prompting riots. However this only lasted until 1934 when Colera regained its independence from Portbou.

The port was updated in 2014 and has space to moor up to 150 boats. Although small, the facilities are good.

Beaches

A train passes Garbet beach

A train passes Garbet beach. Photo by Jordi Verdugo.

The seafront at Colera is surprisingly small, even for such tiny village. It extends back from the port area along the course of the river that flows into the sea there. The main beach is right next to the port, but there are two others nearby. Beaches near Colera are all pebble.

First is Platja dels Morts – beach of the dead – so-called because it was where the dead from Portbou were brought ashore in the old days prior to the town having its own cemetery. Further on is Platja d’en Goixa.

Another notable beach is Platja de Garbet, although it’s a 40 minute walk to get there from Colera. It’s  a beautiful, unspoiled beach that is located in a secluded bay south of the town. The beach is made up of pebbles and rocks rather than sand, but the crystal-clear waters make it an excellent spot for swimming and snorkelling. The beach is relatively small and is generally not very busy, making it an excellent choice for those seeking a peaceful and relaxing day at the beach and there is a beach bar at one end where you can get a cool drink or a bite to eat.

You might also like the beaches at Cala Rovellada, north of the town, and Platja del Borró, which is near Garbet. Rovellada beach is a small, quiet pebble beach in a cove within a housing estate. The beach is perfect for snorkelling and swimming and tends not to be too busy.

Overall, the beaches in Colera are beautiful and offer visitors a chance to relax and enjoy the natural beauty of the Costa Brava. These beaches are an excellent choice for those seeking a peaceful and enjoyable day at the beach.

Where to stay

When it comes to accommodation in Colera your options are quite limited, but that is the price you pay for such a quiet town. The bulk of Colera’s holiday accommodation is rental apartments and villas with just a handful of hotels and hostals – guest houses – serving the town.

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Hostal Totsompops is on the edge of town and has four pet friendly suites and a great restaurant. The 2-star Hotel la Gambina is right on the promenade with views of the bay and it has a restaurant. And Hostal Mont-Mercè is located on the sea front and has a tapas bar for drinks and snacks. These are all fairly no-frills so if you’re looking for luxury accommodation Colera probably isn’t for you but they are clean and offer what many people are looking for when it comes to holiday accommodation.

For those seeking more flexibility and privacy, there are also numerous apartments and rental villas available in Colera. These range from small studio apartments with kitchenette to properties include a fully-equipped kitchen, private swimming pool, and stunning views of the surrounding area.

Camping is another option in Colera, although there is just one campsite serving the area. Camping Sant Miquel offers excellent facilities, including swimming pools, restaurants, and children’s play areas.

Eating in and eating out

Although Colera isn’t a fishing village, Totsompops is highly rated for seafood as well as meat dishes. You’ll get great food and friendly service in this restaurant/hostal which focuses on traditional Catalan dishes. You won’t go wrong with La Gambina either and many guests rave about El Jovent.

For those looking to explore nearby towns, there are several great dining options within a short drive from Colera. These include Miramar, a 2-star Michelin restaurant in Llançà serving thoroughly modern food inspired by traditional Catalan cooking. A little further away is the world renowned El Celler de Can Roca which has 3 Michelin stars and has been twice named best restaurant in the world.

If you prefer self-catering, there are several options available in Colera. There is a small supermarket in the town that offers a range of groceries and household essentials. Additionally, there is an outdoor weekly market on Monday mornings throughout the year for fresh produce and a variety of other items. However, if you are looking for a wider range of shopping options, you may need to visit a larger nearby town such as Llançà or Figueres.

What to see and do

If spending all day on the beach or exploring the coves isn’t your thing then there is still a good selection of activites to participate in and things to explore both in and around Colera. There are the usual watersports options such as kayaking and snorkelling and the village has a dive centre which offers boat trips to dive sites on the Cap de Creus as well as off the French coast. The clear waters around here are perfect for exploring the underwater world and discovering the local marine life.

In the town itself there is the parish church of Sant Miquel de Colera and a collection of sculptures by Joan Padern on the seafront. Plaça Pi i Margall is dominated by a spectacular plane tree that apparently dates from 1898. And if you explore the hill overlooking the port you’ll find two cannons dating from 1789.

Get out of the village and you can explore a number of historical sites. At Molinars you’ll find the ruins of a fortified farmhouse and a watermill dating from the 17th century. It’s 4 kilometres from Colera and accessible on foot. You can drive but you’ll need an off-roader to reach it. Equally remote is Sant Miquel de Colera hermitage, which dates from the 12th century. You can also visit the monastery of Sant Quirze de Colera, a 40 minute drive.

Colera is close to Cap de Creus where nature lovers will also enjoy the many hiking trails and within the Natural Park. It offers stunning views of the coastline and rugged terrain that is perfect for hiking and exploring. You might like to visit the Romanesque Monastery of Sant Pere de Rodes, which dates back to the 9th century. It towers above Port de la Selva and Llançà  and offers stunning views of the surrounding area. Cap de Creus is also where you find the picturesque town of Cadaqués with its whitewashed houses and narrow cobbled streets. Be sure to book a tour of Salvador Dalí’s house in Portlligat while visiting.

And if you’re interested in food then Colera offers a small range of local restaurants and cafes where visitors can sample traditional Catalan cuisine, including fresh seafood and local wines.

Overall, Colera offers a range of activities and attractions that cater to different interests and preferences, making it the perfect destination for a diverse range of holidaymakers.

How to get to Colera

If you’re flying into Barcelona or Girona then consider the train. Colera is the penultimate stop on the train line up from Barcelona and takes up to three hours from the Catalan capital. By road Colera is just over two hours from Barcelona and an hour and a quarter from Girona. The advantage there is that you can get out of town to explore the countryside or visit nearby towns such as Figueres.

If you’re arriving by road from France you can take the D914 coastal road from Cerbère across the border and then follow the winding N-260 through Portbou and on to Colera. If you’re on the motorway then follow the AP-7 southbound from the border until you reach junction 3 at Figueres. From here follow the N-II until Vilabertran, where you should get on the N-260, continuing past Llançà until you reach Colera.

From Barcelona take the AP-7 motorway north towards France and exit at junction 4 before following the signs to Colera. This will take you on the N-II and onto the N-260.

For those flying into Barcelona or Girona airports, public transport options are available. The RENFE train runs regularly from Barcelona to Colera, with a journey time of approximately two hours. From Girona, take the bus or train to Figueres and then change for a train to Colera.

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